Sunday, September 25, 2011

Making RAMPS v1.2 (Part I)

I started to thinking about making a reprap machine time ago. When i had bought the needed things for RAMPS v1.2 i noticed that v1.3 and then v1.4 showed up. But it was already late. So at first i will try to explain the process i followed to make the RAMPS v1.2 board.
ramps v1.2 board (1)

     Notice: If you follow this guide will have to make your own board. I will explain the process in another post with more details.

Step 1: Obtain the files :)
     from the wiki: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.2  as you can see there are instructions, but some things were not so clear and the whole process is used in other cases as well. So you got the right files from here. They are not visible any more on the wiki.

Step 2: Print the .pdf file in transparent sheets, better two of them. Cut them and place one on another, then use some tape (see photo 1). Now your ready to use the dark room :)

box for pcbs (2)
Step 3: You have bought some pcb already i suppose. I used a photosensitive one. So now it's time to transfer the circuit to the board. I used a box like the one in photo. Cut the pcb in the size of the circuit and then remove the protective sticker. Now place the board, above place the transparent sheets with the circuit and then as you see i put a piece of glass in order to hold them firmly (photo 3). Close the door and light up. I can't tell you exactly how much time you will need. I left it for 10-15min for sure.
     Notice: It is better for your board to be in a dark place in the mean time that your board doesn't have the sticker neither the sheets on it. A little light just to see what your doing.
order of sheets (3)
     Notice 2: After the transfer, you must have the developing mix ready.







Step 4: Developing. Now the light from the bulb has burnt the board's protective photosensitive layer except the spots under the black ink. The copper is now almost uncovered. We need to remove the rest of this layer using Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH), also known as lye and caustic soda. We will need a half a spoon. Put the soda inside a wide bowl and fill water 2-3 fingers high. Make sure there are no solid soda and then drop in the board. You will notice a black-to-pink colored layer being removed from the board similar to the one printed on the sheets. Remove the board from the bowl and wash it with water. If you still see some layer rub it gently.
     Notice: Use gloves for these solutions.


evaporated solutions: down:soda, up:H2O2 (4)
Step 5: Etching. The copper we want to remove is now totally uncovered. Let's prepare the solution for etching. I prefer Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and Hydrochloric acid (HCl). HCl can be found at supermarkets, at least here they still sell it. H2O2 is used from pharmacists. Get a clean bowl, wear your gloves and make a solution of about 1 part H2O2 2 (or more)parts of HCl. Now watch how beautifully the chemistry works removing the unwanted copper and showing the circuit! The amount of HCl is used affects the time you will need but too much may remove or hurt the paths. Also the solution must  cover the board.Again wash the board and you should have something like this (except the holes):
finished board (5)
Notice: I put the board again in the developing solution (step 4) in order to remove the rest of the photosensitive layer and check for short-circuits easier.
Notice 2: Check for short-circuits!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Step 6: Milling. The board is almost ready, we have only to make the holes. Find a base and use a rotary tool. The holes and the bits are too small to fit on a typical drill. Find an adapter or as i said get a rotary tool, which is very useful in general. The photo above shows a finished RAMPS v1.2 board ready for soldering.


Next post will be about soldering...

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